the photo you’ve got is of glacier peak - the couloir up the center that you mention is the becky couloir. our original plan was to summit granite, then hike to below this face and summit glacier via this couloir. after the difficulties faced on granite though, and our tight timeline - we scrapped the climb on glacier. it was just as well though - the travel to the glacier creek/stillwater confluence took a lot longer than we optimistically projected. The kahtoola crampons, while they were ultralight - only had 10 points as well, which made front-pointing up steep ice/snow impossible. we’d been told that if we did glacier we would need to get a super early start to get up the ice when it was still hard to avoid rock-fall (you can tell by looking at the face that the main couloir funnels a huge region of the upper wall) - so at the time it was easy to rationalize the change in plans. i hear this climb is amazing though.
we’d also hoped to have pack weights around 20 pounds when all the climbing gear was being used, but they weren’t quite that light. (more like 25 or so) this sounds light, but with the pace we were trying to move, we were exhausted after getting up granite (:
btw - we cut the climbing rope and let it play double duty as throw bag rope - worked reasonably well, except that it of course doesn’t float. i didn’t think this would matter, but the one time we needed to use the rope was when i’d ended up river right after a long and brutal swim and needed to get back river right. i’d lost my paddle and raft, and so had to swim from a boulder 1/3 of the way acrossed and catch the bag tossed from 1/3 of the way from the other shore. i was beat up, freezing cold, and did not want to miss the bag and end up being flushed further down the nasty rapids. the bag was tossed nearly perfectly, but the rope disappeared quickly. there was a brief panic as i dug deep under the water to come up with the rope and pendulum to into an eddy just in time.