My experience with packraft surfing has been pretty good, but the issues Carol had sound pretty familiar. A few things…
What I’ve done: Played in the surf on the WA coast twice. Used a packraft to play, land, and launch in surf along the Sumatra coast in 2005. Land and launch a few times in small surf in Alaska.
Generally I’d agree with Shaggy, go with an open boat (though I haven’t experimented in the surf with a deck). Also the potential for hitting the ground with your skull is high enough a helmet is really nice. I didn’t use a dry suit but I suppose that’s nice in cold water.
On the life vest, I think that’s a good idea, but it’s more important to focus on not getting separated from your raft. In cold water, a 200 yard swim, even in a life vest, can be too much. But packrafts are easy to re-enter (much easier than a kayak). So if you keep close enough to your packraft to re-enter but forgot your life-vest, you may be better off than if you brought the life-vest but lost your boat. What I do is make a wrist lanyard… Usually I pull it off during re-entry, but it means in the confusion of getting rolled you don’t lose the boat. I think it’s good to put some shock cord in the wrist lanyard too, or a big wave might break your wrist.
Ok, enough with safety, now how do you have fun?
First of all, as Carol pointed out, it’s really hard to push straight out through surf. I’ve only managed this when the surf is very small, or when I had a strong outgoing current to help out (such as a rip-tide.) Also steep beaches hit by long period waves will have surging waves that don’t break, so that makes for much easier launching. Better luck can sometimes be found at the end of beaches where rocky headlands push out into the surf. Regardless of where you’re launching, the basic idea is to wait for a small set of waves to launch, and then push out beyond the breaking zone for big waves before the big waves come. In my limited experience it’s really easy to botch this timing and get rolled. One weakness of the packrafts is that they are short, even compared to the curl height of waves. If you’re pushing against waves, then a curl is forcing you over in exactly the direction a packraft already wants to roll… backwards.
Coming in is really fun though. Generally the packrafts bob nicely in non-breaking waves. If you get inside of the outermost break and let a large wave break behind you, then you’re in for an easy ride… they bob up on top of the wave bore and shoot in to shore.
Then you can try for what the real surfers want… the smooth curling wave. Generally packrafts don’t seem to plane all that well, but I’ve found it is possible to remain in your boat even in moderate sized waves (say a 6 foot curl, corresponding to a 3 foot or so swell.) What I did was paddle with the wave until it curled over me. If I just kept running with it, it would flip me forward over the bow, so instead I found that throwing my shoulders and head back into the wave so that my upper torso was under a lot of water prevented me from rotating forward. Plant your feet firmly in the bow for this so you remain associated with the raft. Once the wave finished breaking I’d bob up and be on top of the bore, racing toward shore.
One other fun surf thing that I encountered both in Sumatra and along the rocky coasts of BC last summer… If you can find places where big swells are breaking across rocky platforms there’s a lot of fun “whitewater” rafting to do. The packrafts are perfect because the spin easy, float even on airy foam, and bounce off of things if you goof. I found a place in Sumatra where I could run exciting whitewater between two rocks, then turn around and run the next swell back the opposite direction. I only went through three times, realizing that I probably shouldn’t do it without a buddy around, but it was really fun.
Overall that’s a situation where body armor and helmet is probably a great idea… I’ve always only indulged in brief investigations because I didn’t have protective gear. I want to get out and do it properly, preferably with a helmet cam. 