I’ve always launched at Buckman, on the east side of the rio. Not a good place to leave a vehicle. We either ride bikes from town, or more often we’ll drive to a spot about halfway between Buckman and east side take-out(s) and use bikes from there. From Buckman there is an old narrow gauge railroad grade that follows the river up to Otowi bridge (I think it was called the Chile Line). It’s nice to launch a little upriver from Buckman, simply because Buckman is mostly 2WD access and the last vehicle access until Cochiti, and with the cars come garbage. After Buckman, it quickly becomes a ‘remote’ sort of trip with the canyon walls growing taller every mile downriver and it is spectacular from here on out.
The biking and hiking bits all take place within the Caja del Rio Plateau, Santa Fe Nat. Forest. There are a couple of places to take out on the east side of the canyon. Both are a pretty stiff hike out, up unmaintained trails that are hard to find from the river if you don’t know exactly where to look for the trailhead. These trails are NOT shown on several maps of the area or are inaccurate. One pops out onto Chino mesa which makes a ‘short loop’, but still a full day trip. The other trail out of White Rock Canyon on the east side, is just about opposite Frijoles Canyon (to the west) but just a little downriver. The canyon is a little deeper at this point, the trail is almost never used and so the hike out is for sure a little tougher. This ‘long loop’ can also be done in one day but it has to be a tight group, no loittering, fit and focused. These days I am more interested in doing this as an overnight trip, maybe even staying longer down in the canyon. It’s a really great place, well suited for packrafts.
The biking is easy 2-track, unless it is muddy and then it is unrideable, full-on soul-crushing bike-destroying adobe goo. Not usually a problem, with our climate, but should be kept in mind.
I have not been over Otowi bridge for some time; I want to say it’s no more than 50 feet high. I’ll ask around, but…… the problem with launching at Otowi, is that it is located on the San Idelfonso Indian Reservation. My understanding is that you are not allowed, in any way, shape, or form, to be fooling around on or near this bridge. They have had some problems here in the past, Tribal cops keep a close watch and you may be arrested for trespass, possibly lose all your gear, etc. No joke. Also bear in mind what town is accessed via this bridge http://www.lanl.gov/ , the state of the world, and what a couple of folks dangling from ropes off the side of this particular bridge might look like. You could end up ‘packrafting’ down in Guantanamo Bay . I’m trying to be funny, but again really no joke.
If you click on this http://www.emnrd.state.nm.us/prd/BOATINGWeb/BoatingwatersriverrunningNewMexico.htm and scroll down about halfway, there’s a good description under “Rio Grande Middle-Espanola to Cochiti Lake”. Just a couple of class III’s, so nothing like the upper Rio Grande if that’s what you are looking for.
I’ve never hiked out Frijoles canyon, it’s probably the quickest way off the river. Big boats tend not to come down this far because nobody wants to hike the big boat out. As for going all the way to Cochiti Lake and taking out there, a couple of things. The river starts to go slack even before Ancho rapids. The last couple of miles before the lake proper it is hardly moving. Once you hit the lake it is a couple miles along a steep sided canyon to the take out. In the afternoons the wind funnels up this canyon, strong enough to keep a paddler pinned at the downwind side of the lake. If you are going this route you really need to hit the lake early in the day to avoid these winds. If you want to go all the way from Buckman to Cochiti lake in one day, count on those last miles being a little more taxing than you might expect. This might be more fun as an overnight trip, camping just before the lake and getting out the next morning before the wind kicks up. I sail out at Cochiti, trust me on the pm wind thing.
I’m happy to post info on this trip, let me know if you need more details. I hope to get down there a few times this year and the more the merrier, so come one come all!
Clint