a few of the pictures showing construction of the tube the best I can.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/uncoolperson/sets/72157619062753602/
used the biggest bass guitar string I could find to help get the curve right, and a big chunk of wood to help as my backing while ironing (next time curved piece of wood at the approx diameter and width is necessary).
Well, I think I’m going to give up for the summer. Time to start fishing and stop playing with my project. Perhaps wait until winter (after deer, pheasant, and duck season of course)
Lessons learned
Alpca, well worth it… costs lots (to me anyway) but an at home build costs some too.
I’m in easy 40+ hours (design/build/fix)
materials were $100, add 40 for aquaseal
$40 R&D materials, 6-pack of beer for R&D
4x take out dinner
additional 4 6packs of beer
add another my guess easy $100 materials and 20 hours build time plus $50-$100 hardware for the next build.
Lessons learned, think through and maybe non permanent mock up the build prior to building… make sure my methods will work.
This proved a problem working out the seal that turns all the flat pieces into tubes, I connected everything together hoping to fold then seal up… that didn’t work had to make those seals in tension rather than shear (I was warned about the seal style, but i was stuck). [see attached image]
Work out a better idea than a piece of wood and a clothing iron, didn’t seal the pieces together nicely, fought with that for way too long.
Figure out supply of aquaseal and the fancy accelerator, sure the company’s headquarters are in my town… but they’re closed on weekends.
Also, get more brushes, nothing gets it off the one brush in the package.
If my job was more secure (does anybody have one of those right now?) I’d probably whip out the visa card and get me an alpacka for the summer… saddly it aint. Heck, my resume is all over the place right now.
Oh well, another good reason to buy an Alpacka Raft rather than make one 
MickT
Good try UCP - it was a fun forum to follow, and I have respect for anyone who is prepared to tackle such a project, even though it may be seen as “reinventing the wheel” so to speak. It does make Roman’s production of 6 Sherpa’s back in the 90s something of a feat though. Outside of things that are meant to float (or fly), I think DIY has a great potential, as much of the stuff on the market is designed primarily to last “long” enough, rather than to minimise weight, whereas most DIY gear can be made light, and repaired without any issue.
Suggest that regardless of your work longevity, you seriously consider biting the proverbial bullet and buying a raft . They are fantastic fun, and you only live once. (or think of it as earning $10/hr doing something comparatively menial for 2 weeks = 1 raft…).
A
Just think of all the brain cells you offed huffing that much aquaseal. 
Can you say gene mutation?
Oh, and acetone will clean your brushes.
In my case that would be a good thing.
anyone got a raft that has seen so much of a life it’s really only good for still water… cheap?
Suggest you look at Sevylor “pool toy” type raft…
Don’t even expect it to go anywhere near white water and keep you afloat, …and please read the label which states it is nothing but a “pool toy”, etc, blah, blah, blah, blah…
and …save like crazy to buy an Alpacka, and then enjoy running some white water in it…safely, and enjoy packrafting in it’s own sake.
AND THEN, if you still think you can be bothered, design and try to build another one…but you already know my thoughts about this!
A
any ideas on how to get a “floorless” Alpacka? want to fin and have hands free to fish, stand up in water w boat around me etc…want an Alpacka w watermaster qualities…any ideas?
What about scissors?
A
PVC pipe maybe?
I’d say get a cheap float tube and start lightening it (turn most of the shell into a web).
summerrun, I did the 1st floorless boat experiment for Alpacka. Depending on the boat you want to convert, it’s… well, I guess “possible but depends on what you’re after and what you’re converting.” And keeping in mind there’s an Alpacka experiment -but- with an unknown timespan or outcome going. There would definitely be some unknowns in DIY. How into this project are you?
Shaggy: What result for your floorless ventures? I’m toying with the idea of trying to do that with an Explorer with the goal of getting something along the lines of the water master and water strider rafts, but with less weight. (I would like to keep it under 15 lbs). Thought is to remove the FE floor, then reinforce and glue in an 18"-20" floor material shelf just above the load water line at the rear to support the seat. Then modify the newer rowing frame so it was a bit longer and a snug side to side fit. Install it in a similar raised, above LWL position using heavy duty strap attachments as needed and a beefed up front cross bar for a foot rest. The rear cross piece would be velcro strap attached to the underside front of the seat shelf for extra support. The snug frame would give the tubes side to side support and help hull rigidity. Maybe put in some cross webbing in the front 8" as support for a dry bag. Think it would work? Any thoughts on this approach would be appreciated.
Also, if Alpacka is planning on coming out with something like this fairly soon I’d probably wait and get one of theirs. Seems to me the ideal would be FE-like but about 10" -12" longer and 6" wider with more buoyancy at the rear where the weight is, and maybe a bit bigger tubes all round to make up for the buoyancy loss from the floor removal. A tougher rowing frame/system would be needed as well.
ronk
Seems like the trick, if you don’t have a full floor, is to replace the shear strength and tension provided by the floor. Sounds like your frame mod might achieve that? It sounds like the sort of thing that would have a really rough rough draft… 
Hig: Just noodling it out, it seems the frame mod + retaining 16" or so of raised but attached floor at the rear and 8" at the front (maybe with a couple of sewn in cross webs for lateral strength) would be enough support for the tubes. That would leave a floor opening of about 28" x 15" which is a bit tight but should be enough to allow the use of kickboat fins and stand up wading in slow water. For wading safety while casting, you would want the raft to rotate easily around your legs and quickly weather cock in moving water so that most of the hull was always downstream and parallel to the current.
Marc had another try last winter. Ain’t a packraft yet (used PVC), but it is a good model! Nice job Marc.
http://www.packrafting.de/2011/12/myob-make-your-own-boat.html
I would have not have been that patient. Anyways, mission MYOB (make your own boat) completed.